This week we covered posture, drawing and alignment. In case you have forgotten, the main things we were looking at was making sure your elbow was slightly raised, your shoulders were low and you were standing straight. Continue reading
This guide is from the ICAC Facebook group (Aug 2014)
What if I need extra-long arrows?
This section is a bit different in that it will assume you’ve spoken to/are a senior and have looked at the Easton selection chart.
- Get your drawlength independently verified!!!
- Look at the Easton catalogue(s). They have the shaft lengths (not AMO lengths) marked there.
- Get the poundage on your fingers measured with a gauge. Finding the right arrow for you is a balance between spine and length, and the spine you need is dependent on an accurate measure of your poundage.
- Have a chat with the people at Merlin (or other shop) and talk to them about Easton Pro-Fields and X10 Protours for carbons, and X7 eclipses for aluminiums (accurate as of 2014).
- For straight vanes on carbons, they will recommend no less than 2.25in parabolic ones. If your arrow is longer than 34in, you will want something closer to 3in, but plastic vanes aren’t that expensive, so you can experiment. For feathers on aluminiums, you want the biggest they have to offer so they straighten the arrow flight as quickly as possible. Note: feathers on giant aluminium shafts are only suitable for indoors. Smaller people may get away with it, but you won’t with your heavy arrows.
What if my arrows keep going [left/right] no matter how much I move my sight?
- Check your limb alignment. Line up the string with the allen-headed bolts on the back of the riser. If the string lines up with the centre of both bolts, then move to step 2. It’s unlikely to be this.
- Check your centreshot. If you line up the string with the two allen-headed bolts on the back of your riser and have an arrow on the string, the tip of the point should be ~1/2 the arrow’s width away from the riser relative to the string’s edge. If it is too far in the direction that your arrows are going in, there’s your problem! For a diagram, go to: http://www.panda-bowmen.org.uk/graphics/ctrsht-a.gif
- If the arrows are veering away from the riser at 20yds, the button is too stiff. If not, the button is too soft. For aluminium arrows, just line up the string with the limb bolts again and move your sight so it is centred on the string. Adjust your button stiffness until the arrows hit the gold and do up all of the button’s locking screws. http://www.panda-bowmen.org.uk/graphics/Pressure%20button.gif If you’re using your own carbons, see the link below and take the fletchings off an arrow or two.
What if my arrows go into the target at funny angles?
Are you doing this at at least 18m/20yds? If not, try it and see if that clears it up. If it does not, are they all going in at the same angle? If not, contact a senior about back tension and/or your release. If so, carry on.
- If you’re at ICAC, chances are that you shoot Easton arrows. go to http://www.bowtuningtips.com/files/charts_diagram/eastontarget.jpg and check that your spine is correct for your draw length and poundage. If you don’t know your drawlength, ask someone to measure you. If they are (with aluminium arrows, you can shoot arrows a couple of sizes up/down and still have them straight).
- If they are, proceed to “What if my arrows keep going [left/right] no matter how much I move my sight?” above.
What if my bow is really loud?
- Check that everything is done up properly, especially weights on the ends of any stabilisers you have and tiny screws on your sight. If you have a Cartel sight, it’s probably that. If you have a metal clicker, take it off and bend it so that at rest, the tip exerts pressure on the riser.
- Tiller: Take all stabs off your bow. Fire an arrow (making sure that it does not hit your arm) and see if the nocking point vibrates up and down on release. If so, adjust your tiller. Video to come. See default tiller positions in appendix.
- String length/overall tiller: Just as you can adjust your tiller bolts relative to each other, you can also wind both in and out to adjust the bow’s draw weight. Twists in the string finely adjust length and, therefore, bracing height. Both of these have a sweet spot which gives you minimal vibrations. See appendix for normal bracing height ranges.
- Your limbs and riser may not match. Putting really fast high performance limbs on a riser that is not built to handle them, or putting certain combinations of limbs from, say W&W onto a Hoyt riser can give you vibration issues. Ask an expert/do some Google Fu and see if someone else has these issues.
What if my arrows sometimes lose fletchings when they come off the bow?
Are you using a clicker and shooting it before pulling through it? If not, proceed.
- Check your centreshot. See “What if my arrows keep going [left/right]” above.
- Are you using a Hoyt Hunter rest with anything other than feathers? If so, stop and ask the equipments officer to put a Hoyt Super rest on your bow. Are you using a magnetic rest without a button? If so, stop it. A Shibuya DX button is legendarily reliable and is ~£20. The fletching is probably catching on your rest because you don’t have a button to keep the arrow away from the rest.
- If you have straight fletchings, nock your arrow (the right way round) and look down it. If it looks like a fletching will catch on your riser/button/something else in the area, you need to rotate your nocks until they don’t. If you have spin vanes or if the above didn’t help, put an even coat of talc all over the area around your arrow rest and button. Fire a couple of arrows. If the talc streaks, you have clearance issues. Rotate your nocks until this doesn’t happen. Spin vanes often end up in a Y shape rather than having a fletching pointing at 90 degrees to the riser.
What if my brass nocking points are tearing at my tab/shooting glove?
- Stop shooting immediately. If the brass nocking point is not secured properly, it can fly off during release or tear at your forearm. Both have happened. This is common with new strings as the manufacturer expects you to put them on yourself in the best position.
- Get a pair if nocking point pliers (the club has some) and really pinch the edges together.
- Once you have tuned your nocking point, take them off and replace with a string nocking point. They don’t damage your tab/glove that much and make your string faster than brass.
What if stuff on my bow keeps working loose?
- If you are talking about a Cartel sight/button, I cannot help you. Glue and tape is your best friend in that case.
- If not, screws and screw-in points can be made to stick better with beeswax or string wax.
- Your bow is almost certainly untuned. A well tuned bow will cut down on vibrations by a lot. See the equipments officer about “tiller”, “alignment”, and “bracing height”.
- If your bow is tuned and this is still a problem (very unlikely) and you have stabilisers, you need to add to them. A damper on the end of your long rod will really help if you don’t have one already. If you do, then you can also add a limb rod or two with a damper on that.
Help! I’ve lost one of my screws!
This is a section for what type of screw is used for what. Just go and buy a few cheap stainless steel replacements from ebay.
- Shibuya DX button grub screws (the ones that hold everything down: M3 x 3mm (to fit 1.5mm allen key if desired)
- Soma/Fivics Saker series tabs and Decut Aco Hockii tab: M3 x 6mm countersunk (preferably stainless steel A2)
- Clicker screws for both Hoyts (since the Axis), all SF and W&W: 6-32. Maybe 6-8mm long. Note: PC case screws are compatible with these.
Normal bracing height ranges for bows:
68”: 8 3/4” to 9 1/2”
66”: 8 1/2” to 9 1/4”
Default tiller positions for common risers:
Hoyt: +4mm (top tiller measurement 4mm longer than bottom)
SF Super Forged: +2mm
SF Forged +: +2mm to +4mm (worked out empirically)